The First Showcase, Upstairs @ Indian Accent
New Delhi, India
Chef Claude Bosi helmed Hibiscus, a popular 2 hatted establishment in London until it shut down. He has now moved to Bibendum with its seafood bar concept followed by the ultimate fine dining experience, making his presence felt in the Indian food scene by hosting a pop up at the newly opened Indian Accent at The Lodhi. When one hears of about a collaboration between two stalwarts like Manish Mehrotra & Claude Bosi, expectations skyrocket.
However, even though the nine-course menu was high on presentation and technique, it couldn’t deliver on taste for most courses.
The food was presented daintily with generous use of microgreens & edible flowers. We were told that the people at Indian Accent took 6 months to source the equipment and ingredients the chef required to create this gastronomical experience but the food just didn’t manage to tantalize my taste buds. I went in expecting an experience similar to Le Cinq at the George V in Paris; maybe my expectations were too high.
The tasting menu started on a high with mushroom custard which was frothy and rich with accents of coconut and a coastal twist with madras curry powder, followed by a beetroot terrine, which was fine. The real disappointment started with the Kanyakumari crab terrine with a nimbu jelly. The crab was rubbery and flavourless and the jelly didn’t work in savoury. The vegetable dumplings were nice but underwhelming. The sweet potato nosotto was surprising and a step away from the usual mushroom risotto; it showcased some real skill. Both the desserts were pleasant and managed to uphold a good restaurant quality. The chocolate tart was sensational! It was encased in a perfectly crumble sable, with a molten chocolate centre and flecks of gold with a creamy vanilla ice cream quenelle on top.
I expected too much and at the end of the day missed my ghee roast mutton boti and the South Indian crab they serve downstairs. However, if I view it objectively it was a pleasant experience and it was very decently priced for the number of courses and the brand names that come with them – Indian Accent & Claude Bossi.
