A Gastronomic Sojourn in Chandni Chowk
New Delhi, India
We start with breakfast at Dariba, the silver smith’s lane. Street hawkers line up with Aloo ki sabzi served with hot khasta kachoris and fluffy, melt-in-your-mouth bread pakoras.
Another classic is the same Aloo ki sabzi served with Nagoris ( Baby poori-matthi hybrid) and scalding sooji ka halwa.
In winter, the same lane is buzzing with Daulat ki chaat stalls. Daulat ki chaat isn’t what you expect from chaat, it’s actually a soufflé that can give the French a run for their money. Fluffy, rich milk is hand-churned overnight, Kewra is added for fragrance, Saffron for flavor and nuts & Chura for texture. It’s light as air and this original still wins hands down from the Indian accent restaurant version.
We then go on to Chaina Ram- Sindhi confectioners for Chola- Aloo poori and Karachi halwa. This breakfast dish tends to sell out by 10 am so, you have to be quick. A tangy Chola Gravy with a spicy potato curry, hot and fluffy pooris, a lethal methi chutney topped off with a carrot pickle. If your taste buds don’t overload with this combination I don’t know what will top this.
Digressing a little from the straight loop that is Chandni Chowk, we end up walking towards Fatehpuri Masjid and we stumble across Gole Hati, Another place famous for Chola albeit served with Kulcha here. Another version served is the Chola-Palak Chawal.
A layered dish of sorts served in a mud kulhar, its the same chola with a spinach curry and rice topped with a chutney and onions.
Lo & Behold the icon that is Shiv Mishtan Bhandar. This place hands down has the best Jalebis the world has to offer.
Their Aloo-Bedvi is the star dish, Aloo ki sabzi served with a Classic UP style masala stuffed poori known as a Bedvi. This is served with a pumpkin preparation and Kachori is also an option here.
It’s accompanied by a fiery fenugreek chutney and fresh pickle.
Now, we move on to Natraj for Dahi Bhalle, I now feel that my bhallas whipped in the kitchen aid come out far superior but try this place if you haven’t already or purely for nostalgia. Stop at Bhikram Chandmal for some namkeen to Carry home, their Mirchi potato chips are bae.Pick up a pan for later in that row and maybe even some Doodh Pakodi ( Lighter and better version of Rasmalai) from Vishal Mawa Bhandar.
If you’re trying to delude yourself by counting calories, You can head to Bishan Swaroop For fruit chaat near Khadi Gram. Even fruit here get a purani Dilli twist.
Cross the road and head into Paranthe Wali Gali where my pick is Kanniya Lal Durga Prashad Dixit Parathe Wale.
If you think the name is a mouthful, wait till you try the parathas. This concept has been around since the 1780’s and it never gets old.
Here Parathas are the hero and the sabzis, chutneys & pickles are the accompaniments. Standard sabzi of Aloo, Ghia or Pumpkin is served up with a green chutney, saunth(sweet&sour syrup) and pickle.
Some quirky ones also find space on the menu where you’ll find classics like aloo, paneer, and gobhi with papad, Almond & green chili.
Heading out of here, stop at Kanwarji for his long Gulab Jamuns. Fluffier than the regular balls these Gulab Jamuns are an icon in the mithai world.
You can also sample their dhoklas, chikki and Dal biji ( A classic Chandni Chowk preparation), A trip to Chandni Chowk have the power to satisfy all your herbivorous cravings with a myriad of flavors, textures & historic techniques.